how to build a brick chimney for a wood stove

How to Build a Brick Chimney for a Wood Stove

By Robert King
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Building a brick chimney for a wood stove is a rewarding project that not only enhances your home's aesthetic appeal but also ensures safe and efficient operation of your stove. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the process, from planning to completion, ensuring your chimney meets safety standards and performs optimally.

Before you start, ensure you have the necessary tools and materials. You'll need bricks, mortar, a trowel, a level, a shovel, a tape measure, and safety gear, including gloves and goggles. Also, familiarize yourself with local building codes and obtain any required permits.

Planning and Foundations

Starting with a solid plan is crucial for a successful chimney build. Measure the height and width of your wood stove's flue collar to determine the size of your chimney. A common size is 6 inches by 6 inches, but this may vary.

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Next, decide on the height and location of your chimney. It should be high enough to vent smoke effectively, typically at least 3 feet above the roofline. The location should be clear of obstructions and comply with local building codes.

Preparing the Site

Clear the area where you'll build the chimney base. If you're building on a deck or roof, ensure the structure can support the weight of the chimney. If necessary, reinforce the structure.

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Mark out the base dimensions using stakes and strings. The base should be at least 12 inches wider than the chimney on all sides to provide stability.

Laying the Foundation

Dig a hole for the foundation, ensuring it's deep enough to accommodate the chimney's height and provide a solid base. The hole should be at least 12 inches wider than the chimney on all sides.

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Fill the hole with a mixture of concrete and gravel, ensuring it's level and compacted. Allow the concrete to cure for at least 72 hours before proceeding.

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Building the Chimney

Once the foundation is cured, you can start laying bricks. Begin by spreading a layer of mortar on the foundation, ensuring it's level and smooth.

Start laying bricks at the corners, ensuring they're level and plumb. Use a level and a trowel to apply mortar to the ends and sides of each brick, ensuring a strong bond with the previous layer.

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Laying the First Course

Lay the first course of bricks around the perimeter of the foundation, ensuring they're level and aligned. Use a tape measure to ensure the bricks are square.

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Brauliorodrg - MASONRY CHIMNEY CONSTRUCTION AND FLASHING DETAIL This technical illustration provides a cross-sectional view of a masonry chimney system, focusing on the structural integration between the flue, the brick exterior, and the roof interface. The diagram emphasizes the importance of moisture protection, thermal expansion management, and structural reinforcement to ensure the longevity and safety of the chimney assembly. KEY COMPONENTS & FEATURES • Flue and Insulation: A central concrete or clay flue liner is surrounded by a layer of insulation, which separates the heat-generating core from the exterior brickwork. • Chimney Cap and Sealant: The top of the chimney is finished with a concrete cap. A flexible sealant and compressible material are used at the flue-to-cap interface to allow for thermal expansion without cracking the masonry. • Structural Reinforcement: Steel rebar (reinforcement) is embedded within the concrete cap and tied into the masonry to provide lateral stability and prevent separation. • Drip Edge: A small undercut or projection labeled \
Brauliorodrg - MASONRY CHIMNEY CONSTRUCTION AND FLASHING DETAIL This technical illustration provides a cross-sectional view of a masonry chimney system, focusing on the structural integration between the flue, the brick exterior, and the roof interface. The diagram emphasizes the importance of moisture protection, thermal expansion management, and structural reinforcement to ensure the longevity and safety of the chimney assembly. KEY COMPONENTS & FEATURES • Flue and Insulation: A central concrete or clay flue liner is surrounded by a layer of insulation, which separates the heat-generating core from the exterior brickwork. • Chimney Cap and Sealant: The top of the chimney is finished with a concrete cap. A flexible sealant and compressible material are used at the flue-to-cap interface to allow for thermal expansion without cracking the masonry. • Structural Reinforcement: Steel rebar (reinforcement) is embedded within the concrete cap and tied into the masonry to provide lateral stability and prevent separation. • Drip Edge: A small undercut or projection labeled \
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an image of a wood stove with instructions on how to use it and what to put in it
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28K views · 2.1K reactions | That wood stove right there was it! But it wasn’t actually there at all, that was drywall and empty space. Our house did have a wood stove and full chimney but it wasn’t hooked up and the chimney was rotting. We called a wood stove company to quote us on a new stove and fixing the chimney and were quoted $12,000+. So we did what we do best, cut a hole in the side of our house in the middle of October, built a pad, and installed one ourselves for around $3k! We could have done it cheaper but we also knew we weren’t going anywhere and we wanted something we loved. I love a good herringbone brick but the color ways available in our price range were not it! The worn, warm tone look I wanted was out of the question because we just couldn’t afford it. I had never done brickwork either…. So we grabbed a few dozen boxes of red brick, acrylic paint in the most awful colors, a sea sponge, and lots of grout and I got to work. It took me almost 40 hours to create the brickwork I wanted. I literally finger painted the entire thing so it was exactly it! Then we installed the wood stove and the piping outside. We can heat our home, no one can take that away from us. We can cook on it, and again, no one can take that away. We can dry laundry by it. Heat up coffee instead of using a microwave. I’m sure I could even manage to bake bread if I tried. It truly was the most perfect non-negotiable! | aly - our midwest roots - forest grown farm | Ocie Elliott · This Beautiful Life
28K views · 2.1K reactions | That wood stove right there was it! But it wasn’t actually there at all, that was drywall and empty space. Our house did have a wood stove and full chimney but it wasn’t hooked up and the chimney was rotting. We called a wood stove company to quote us on a new stove and fixing the chimney and were quoted $12,000+. So we did what we do best, cut a hole in the side of our house in the middle of October, built a pad, and installed one ourselves for around $3k! We could have done it cheaper but we also knew we weren’t going anywhere and we wanted something we loved. I love a good herringbone brick but the color ways available in our price range were not it! The worn, warm tone look I wanted was out of the question because we just couldn’t afford it. I had never done brickwork either…. So we grabbed a few dozen boxes of red brick, acrylic paint in the most awful colors, a sea sponge, and lots of grout and I got to work. It took me almost 40 hours to create the brickwork I wanted. I literally finger painted the entire thing so it was exactly it! Then we installed the wood stove and the piping outside. We can heat our home, no one can take that away from us. We can cook on it, and again, no one can take that away. We can dry laundry by it. Heat up coffee instead of using a microwave. I’m sure I could even manage to bake bread if I tried. It truly was the most perfect non-negotiable! | aly - our midwest roots - forest grown farm | Ocie Elliott · This Beautiful Life
Creating a Fake Chimney Breast Around a Log Burner
Creating a Fake Chimney Breast Around a Log Burner
Wood Stove Chimney Pipe Installation
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Yorkshire Stoves | Wood Burning Stoves & Multifuel Log Burner Installers
Yorkshire Stoves | Wood Burning Stoves & Multifuel Log Burner Installers

Allow the mortar to set for at least 24 hours before proceeding. This ensures the bricks are securely bonded and the chimney is stable.

Laying Subsequent Courses

Continue laying bricks in courses, ensuring each course is level and aligned with the previous one. Stagger the bricks in each course to create a strong bond and prevent vertical cracks.

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As you reach the roof, you'll need to install a chimney flashing to prevent water from entering the roof. Ensure the flashing is properly installed and sealed to prevent leaks.

Finishing Touches

Once you've reached the desired height, lay the final course of bricks. This course should be slightly wider than the others to create a crown that directs water away from the chimney.

Apply a layer of cement-based mortar to the top of the chimney to create a final seal. This should be allowed to cure for at least 72 hours before use.

Installing the Chimney Cap

A chimney cap is essential to prevent rain, snow, and animals from entering the chimney. Choose a cap that's compatible with your chimney size and design.

Install the cap according to the manufacturer's instructions, ensuring it's secure and level. Regularly inspect the cap to ensure it's in good condition and performing effectively.

Congratulations! You've successfully built a brick chimney for your wood stove. Regularly inspect your chimney for cracks or damage, and clean it annually to ensure safe and efficient operation. Enjoy the warmth and ambiance of your wood stove, knowing you've created a safe and efficient heating source.

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